Prices from:
£90 per night
Not far from the River Thames and a brief stroll from Kelmscott Manor, the former summer home of renowned Arts and Crafts designer, poet, novelist and social activist William Morris, the Plough Inn, a pretty 17th-century inn lies tucked away down single-track roads in the peaceful and truly unspoilt village of Kelmscott. It has long been a favourite among Thames path walkers and the boating fraternity, and now draws an appreciative lunch crowd en route to the impressive Manor along the road. Having made a huge success of the Five Alls at nearby Filkins (see entry), Sebastian and Lana Snow sensibly snapped up the freehold of the Plough Inn in March 2015 and spent six months overseeing the stylish and sympathetic refurbishment, with the expert help of interior designer Miranda Snow, Sebastian’s sister. The old inn has been spruced up in true country style. Expect quirky, vintage and antique finds, up-cycled and recycled timbers, and a décor palette of greens, greys and whites, which has given The Plough a cool, rustic style. The original features, including flagstone and oak flooring, have been beautifully restored, and the pub has green credentials with a ground source pump system providing under floor heating throughout, as there’s no gas supply to the property.
Children are welcome in the pub and child’s size portions of fish & chips, sausages and mash, and a burger are available, as are mini roasts on Sunday.
Dogs are made very welcome in the bar but not in the bedrooms.
Arrive early on warm summer days to bag a bench in the gorgeous front cottage garden. It’s a peaceful spot overlooking the village lane and boasts smart picnic tables and cream brollies.
The Hideaway Bar is housed in an old stable block in the garden, seats up to 10 people and is available for private parties.
What’s the Damage?
7 doubles £90-£130; 1 single £70-£90
What Else?
The Snows have worked wonders within the constraints of the upstairs space and the eight rooms are super stylish and comfortable, with sisal flooring, painted furniture, upholstered chairs, warm Farrow & Ball hues, and quality beds topped with crisp linen, thick duvets, cushions and colourful throws. Simple, fully tiled bathrooms boast indulgent walk-in rain showers or freestanding tubs, under flooring heating, fluffy towels and decent smellies.
Under floor heating in bathrooms; Ren toiletries; mineral water but no kettle/tea/coffee as the coffee is so good downstairs
Television
Fresh juices; fruit bow; stewed fruits; granola & yoghurt; croissants, toast & jams; hot porridge & honey; smoked salmon & scrambled eggs; The Plough full English
What’s the Damage?
7 doubles £90-£130; 1 single £70-£90
What Else?
Head chef Matt Read comes with a top pedigree, having previously worked with Sebastian at his London restaurant, Snows on the Green, as well as spells at The Ivy and Langan’s Brasserie in London. Matt knows Sebastian’s cooking style intimately and delivers some inspired modern British food, his daily carte showcasing the best locally sourced produce such as pork from Kelmscott and vegetables from the Vale of Evesham. If you just fancy a pint and something to nibble on, then you can order some delicious bar snacks (served all day), perhaps hogs pudding scotch egg with brown sauce, or more substantial traditional bar meals like a ploughman’s lunch or a burger and fries are served in the bar.
(Starters: £4-£7.50; Main Courses: £12.50-£18; Desserts £6-£8)
Sautéed wild mushrooms on toast
Smoked mackerel, new potatoes, herb salad, crispy bacon
Ballotine of hake, chorizo, peppers, potato, spinach
Lamb rump, Jerusalem artichokes, potato, minted caper gravy
Dark rum and chocolate mousse pot
Sticky date & ginger pudding, toffee sauce & vanilla ice cream
Bar menu
(£5-£13)
Prawn & avocado sandwich with homemade crips
Pork burger & fries
Monkfish scampi & chips
Kelmscott sausages, mash, caramelized onion & sage gravy
Poached smoked haddock, spinach & hen’s egg
(£15-£16)
Roast rump of beef (Yorkshire pudding) or cracked pork belly (apple sauce), roast potatoes and all the trimmings
Lunch: 12 noon – 2.30pm (3pm Saturday)
Dinner: 6pm – 9.30pm (10pm Saturday)
Sunday 12 noon – 7pm. No food Sunday evenings
Kelmscott Pork, Kelmscott (www.kelmscottcountrypork.co.uk)
The bar counter may be small but it delivers a decent range of drinks – craft ales like Sharps Doombar, the Plough Pint (brewed by Hook Norton) and a guest beer like Butcombe Bitter, alongside a good bottled beers and ciders. On the back shelf there’s a short but select choice of malt whiskies and among the gins and vodkas you’ll find Two Birds Boutique Vodka. With the wines, discerning drinkers and casual quaffers will be spoilt for choice, the imaginative list featuring some heavy-duty French classics, served by the glass, carafe, bottle, and up to a magnum. Soft drinks are sourced from Cotswold producers, plus there’s homemade lemonade, own recipe smoothies, and seasonal cocktails.
(£3-£7.50)
Devils on horseback; Kelmscott pork scratchings; thrice cooked wedges in bacon salt; half pint of prawns; olives and nuts on the bar
12 noon – 11pm (9pm Sunday)
What’s the Damage?
7 doubles £90-£130; 1 single £70-£90
What Else?
Take it back home
Tour the brewery that brewed your favourite pint, visit the shop on the farm that reared your delicious Sunday roast beef, and seek out the roadside stalls selling the local crab and samphire on the inn’s menu, the Food Trail features the local artisan producers and suppliers where you can buy to enjoy at home.
Change of scenery
Looking for a pub for lunch following a country walk, a different venue for dinner, or a good café for coffee, light lunch or afternoon tea, then the best in the area are listed below. If you find a new and exciting eatery in the area that’s worthy of a mention on the Food Trail, then please to do let us know – .
Inn Location - The Plough Inn
Located in the rolling Cotswold countryside outside of Burford, this family business smokes just about everything from game to fish. They also stock fresh game, paté, potted terrines, charcuterie and olives.
Enjoy a truly innovative menu and comfortable, luxurious bedrooms at chef Emily Watkins's classic Cotswolds inn.
See Inn Places entry
Perfect for exploring the Moors, ease into this grand old town centre inn with its quirky, immaculate bedrooms.
See Inn Places entry
Glorious gardens and views, outstanding food and wines, stylish interiors and a clutch of comfortable rooms upstairs.
See Inn Places entry
Excellent gastropub where you can enjoy some fantastic modern British food from regularly changing blackboard menus. The beers are good, too, but you can also try a glass of wine from the very good menu or maybe a cocktail. The steak and chips is first class.
Cracking foodie pub run by chef-Patron Martin Coldicott. The 16th-century Cotswold-stone pub has low beams, stone floors and a menu that keeps things suitably simple.
A purveyor of an incredible selection of the finest cheeses with a good selection from local producers. They also sell other artisan and local produce such as local breads, biscuits and crackers, chutneys and local potted meats.
Inn Activities
Shopping
Places of interest - Filter results using pins Inn Location - The Plough Inn
The Cotswold Off-Road Driving School provides expert guidance from 4x4 competitors and instructors. The picturesque course is based at the Cotswold Water Park near Cirencester.
Enjoy a great climbing experience at this excellent venue where you’ll find indoor climbing and bouldering for all ages and abilities. This really is the place to reach new heights.
This is the perfect destination for anyone who still savours the unique thrill of steam travel. Though no longer part of the national rail network, these wonderful old trains have made a welcome comeback and area great way to discover the delights of the beautiful Cotswolds.
This is a must for anyone with a passion for real food. At Daylesford, south of Moreton-in-Marsh, you’ll find an excellent choice – from classic courses such as quick and simple suppers and seasonal dinner parties to something niche and specialized – for example, nose-to-tail butchery and artisan bread making.
Based in Stow-on-the-Wold, this well-established independent bookseller stocks a vast range of books, including many of the classics. Out-of-print books, attractively designed greeting cards and wrapping paper are also available.
Established in 1985, the Christmas Shop in Lechlade is the oldest retailer in the UK specialising in all things festive. Open all year, this is the place to hunt out those elusive Christmas presents well ahead of the predictable December rush.
If you love teddy bears, a visit to this charming shop is a must. Established in 1985, Teddy Bears of Witney has the finest and most collectable teddy bears in the world. On permanent display, among other familiar old friends, is Aloysius, featured in the 1980s television series, Brideshead Revisited.
Spread over two floors, the Old Pill Factory in Witney is the place to visit for furniture, glass, toys, clothes and garden pieces. You’ll find a group of dedicated antiques experts who are passionate about antiques and vintage homeware.
A children’s boutique with its own brand of clothing, designed by its award-winning owner, Julia Cook. There’s a wide selection of other labels, too, such as Hatley, Frugi and Toby Tiger. This is a treasure trove for children up to the age of eight.
The Applestore, just a short drive from Moreton-in-Marsh, is just the place for beautiful, shabby chic interiors. Before leaving, you’ll be filled with ideas and within the store you’ll find antiques, quirky ephemera, candlesticks, soft furnishings, a range of gifts and plenty more besides.
Among a host of prominent retailers in the historic town of Cirencester is the Jungle Boutique, offering a range of unique clothes and accessories. French, Spanish and Italian designer ranges,with an eclectic mix of striking jewellery and bags reflect the latest fashions and trends.
Well worth a visit, this independent, design-led, contemporary greetings cards and gift store was established by the residents of this charming old town at the heart of Oxfordshire.
Hidcote is one of the country's greatest gardens, full of rare shrubs and trees, herbaceous borders and unusual plants from all over the world. In addition, there are superb views across the Vale of Evesham from the garden.
Falcons, eagles, vultures and other birds of prey are your companions here as they swoop above you - the flying displays are breathtaking. You can even pose for photographs with an owl on your arm.
One of Britain's largest and most famous stately homes, Blenheim Palace offers a host of treasures to discover. There are guided tours of the staterooms and a chance to explore the estate's sumptuous parkland. A new Winston Churchill Memorial Garden and Footsteps Trail opened in 2015, taking visitors on a journey through the key achievements in the great statesman's extraordinary life and his early years in this area. Churchill's grave can be seen in the churchyard at nearby Bladon.
Sudeley Castle was home to Katherine Parr, Henry VIII's last wife. She's buried here, as well, so this is the only private castle that's the final resting place of a queen. It's played an important role in England's often turbulent history and has royal connections stretching back over 1,000 years. Inside you'll find an interesting collection of furniture, paintings and unique artefacts, and the gloriously restored gardens are absolutely beautiful.
Situated in a secluded part of the Coln valley, the Roman villa at Chedworth dates from around AD 120 and is open daily from mid-February to the end of November and was originally believed to have been a farmhouse.
Cogges Manor consists of a 13th-century house and 17th-century farm buildings. These days it's a popular heritage centre with a strong emphasis on horticulture, rural crafts and family-friendly entertainment. It's also just the place to help understand the origins of early rural life and put the past into perspective.
Chastleton House, near Chipping Norton, is a fine Jacobean mansion with a striking south front. Now managed by the National Trust, the interiors of the 17th-century house may be familiar to television viewers as the family home of the Seymours in the BBC drama Wolf Hall. The small stone courtyard doubles for Putney, where a young Cromwell is attacked by his father.
This meticulously detailed model of the Vale of White Horse in Oxfordshire is a breathtaking spectacle. Everywhere you look there are quaint thatched cottages, olde-worlde pubs and exquisite churches. Pendon is where the English countryside comes to life under one roof.
There are now more than a thousand varieties of trees on display at Batsford. The colours are especially striking in spring and autumn. Expect to find cherries, azaleas and rhododendrons among the species.
A day out at this popular visitor attraction is always a memorable experience – not least for the 260 different species of animals to be found here. Covering 160 acres of parkland and garden, the Cotswold Wildlife Park represents the largest privately owned zoological collection in Britain. There’s also a narrow gauge railway.
www.walkinginoxfordshire.co.uk
www.oxfordshirecotswolds.org
www.nationaltrails.co.uk
One of the best ways to discover the delights of the Cotswolds and upper Thames is on foot. There are numerous picturesque walks to be enjoyed here, as well as scenic stretches of the Thames Path, which follows the river from its source all the way to the Thames Barrier in London.
www.walkandcycle.co.uk/oxfordshire
www.cycle-route.com
Two local landscapes, the upper Thames Valley and the Vale of White Horse, are perfect for cycling. Here, you’ll find plenty of quiet lanes and off-road routes. Not far away is the popular Oxfordshire Cycle Way. For something a bit different, try a combination of bike and train, using the lovely Cotswold line, which has a string of country stations from which to choose.
www.cotswolds.com/whats-on/festivals-events
www.airtattoo.com
This is a part of the country where there is always something happening. There are many modest, small-scale occasions but there are also plenty of bigger events to draw the crowds, including the spectacular Fairford International Air Tattoo, held annually in July. Elsewhere, there’s the Chipping Norton Music Festival in March, the National Mills Weekend in May and the Charlbury Street Fair in September. Other fixtures throughout the year include traditional festivals and theatrical performances at Cogges Manor Farm, Witney, the Blenheim Horse Trials, Stroud Food Festival and the prestigious Cheltenham Literary Festival.
By Road: from A417 Faringdon road just east of Lechlade (before crossing the River Thames), take the B4449 and follow signs for Kelmscott (2 miles)
By Rail: the nearest station is Swindon, 25 minutes by taxi
, Kelmscott, Oxfordshire, GL7 3HG
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