The Talbot Hotel Oundle, Northamptonshire
Mastering the menu
The Talbot styles itself an ‘eatery and coffee house’, which has a suitably Georgian ring – but don’t be fooled into thinking the food matches the informality of the name. True, there are “classics” to complement the six or eight mains on the a la carte menu, but even there you can expect something special: treacle-cured black bacon and local Colston Bassett Stilton on your Angus burger; slow-braised venison in your suet pudding. The sharing platters are especially imaginative: the antipasti includes goose salami, smoked duck and buffalo Mozzarella; there’s a mezze one with baba ghanoush and Moroccan spiced apricot chutney; and the whole smoked Camembert comes with rosemary focaccia, red onion chutney and green bean salad. There’s a nicely democratic approach to dining here: eat where you will, choose what you wish, irrespective of the time of day. Breakfast and brunch is served 8am-noon, cakes and bakes from the Patisserie Cabinet till 6pm. And as well as proper coffees made behind the heaving cake display, there’s a superior tea menu for afters, including Mao Feng, liquorice and peppermint and ‘spiced red’.
On the menu
Lincolnshire Poacher rarebit, smoked bacon, apple and sultana chutney
Crab linguine, Portland crab, dill, lemon, chilli, crème fraiche, Parmesan shavings
Fillet of halibut, bubble and squeak, beetroot, grain mustard velouté
Duck breast, orange and thyme puy lentils, green beans, raspberry jelly, marmalade jus
Iced blackberry parfait, blackberry compote, lemon curd, spiced apple sponge
Sunday roasts
Sundays are a la carte, with beef, pork and lamb typically on the menu, perhaps trimmed with honey-mustard roasted carrots, roasted red onion and roast potatoes (£13-£15) – plus chicken, fish and a veggie option. There’s a full suite of starters (£6-£7), those sharing platters and some ‘lighter bites’ too: though you won’t go home hungry after the Talbot burger.
Foodie Extras
Barbecues and hog roasts for parties on request.
Time to eat
Lunch: 12 noon- 3pm (6pm Sunday)Dinner: 6pm – 9pm, Food all day Friday-Saturday 12 noon – 9.30pm. Sandwiches, platters and afternoon teas served noon-6pm.
Local, local, local
Chapel & Swan Smokehouse, Exning (www.chapelandswan.com)
Seven Wells Butchers, Oundle (www.sevenwells.co.uk)
Wards of Ruskington meats, Sleaford (www.wards-meats.co.uk)
Lutton Farm fruit and veg, Lutton (www.luttonfarm.com)
Kingsthorpe Farm eggs, Polebrook (01832 272034)
Kings Cliffe Bakery, Kings Cliffe (01780 470205)
Behind the bar
There are guaranteed to be two foaming local brews, which change weekly: it might be March Hare or Mad Monk from Digfield’s, up the road in Barnwell. There’s a rather funky craft beer menu too: bottle of Dogfish Head, anyone? The wine list is big on value as well as quality, with more than a dozen bottles at under £20, and 15 offered by the glass; plus there are no fewer than five different champagnes, half a dozen malts, premium spirits such as Hendrick’s gin, and a modest cocktail list.
Bar snacks
They’re not so much snacks as full-blown tapas here: proper miniature meals put together with the same attention to the detail as the rest of the place. They might include honey-and-mustard roasted Oundle sausages; pulled nine-hour BBQ pork with crispbread; pork belly fingers with apple sauce; or smoked haddock and salmon croquetas with aioli (£3-£5).
Time at the bar
11am – 11pm (12 midnight Friday-Sunday)