The Sun Inn Dedham, Essex, CO7 6DF
Mastering the menu
Behind all the ancient beams and timbering is a kitchen with a young, modern attitude, beavering away and producing a breezy line-up of appealing modern British dishes with strong Italian influences. Head chef Jack Levine, an Italophile, delivers short, imaginative seasonal menus, his repertoire built around top-notch produce delivered daily from local farmers, fishermen and growers, and quality ingredients from Italian artisan producers, notably olive oil, vinegar, grains and pulses. From the daily menu, share the plate of antipasti (fresh crab crostini, Parma ham with olives, Mersea Rock Oysters), or tuck into a rich and thick Tuscan bean soup filled with black cabbage and autumn vegetables. Follow with calf’s liver with Marsala, sage, olive oil potato puree and spinach, leaving room for hazelnut and espresso cake with Vin Santo ice cream. A bar menu is served at lunchtime and all day (until 6pm) Friday to Sunday.
On the menu
(Starters £5-£6.85; main courses £12.85-£18.50; puddings £5.85-£7.75)
Celeriac & black cabbage soup, parmesan bruschetta
Pasta with squid & ink, orange zest, garlic & dill
Wild sea bass baked with basil, Vermouth, lentils, samphire
Salt marsh lamb, onion, baby turnips, peas, bread beans, mint
Mark Hall’s Estate venison casserole, Chianti Classico, swede, wet polenta, thyme
Pear & almond tart, mascarpone cream
Pannacotta with Grappa & raspberries
Foodie Extras
The monthly themed wine dinners on a Thursday evening (September to May) with wine expert Hamish Anderson are worth experiencing (£55; 4/5 courses; 8-10 wines). With 24 hours notice the kitchen will rustle up a delicious picnic lunch for your day out on the river (boats can be hired from the Boathouse in Dedham (April-October) for a row to Flatford) or exploring the Suffolk coast; light lunch £8.75; full-on lunch £15, replete with picnic set and rug, and you get 25% off any drinks from the bar list.
Time to Eat
Breakfast: 8am – 9.30am (8.15am – 9.45am Saturday & Sunday)
Lunch: 12 noon – 2.30pm (3pm Friday & Saturday)
Bar menu: served until 6pm Friday – Sunday)
Dinner: 6pm – 9.30pm
Local, local, local
Game, beef, lamb pork & veal: Willshere & Sons, Mark’s Tey (www.awillsherandson.co.uk)
Chickens: Sutton Hoo Chickens, Hasketon, Suffolk (www.suttonhoochicken.co.uk)
Quails: Norfolk Quails, Fakenham (www.norfolkquail.co.uk)
Line-caught, seasonal inshore fish from local & south coast days boats: Ben’s Fish, East Mersea (www.bensfishmersea.co.uk) and Little Fish Company (day boats from Wivenhoe)
Free-range eggs: Gate Farm Eggs, Capel St Mary
Seasonal fruit & vegetables from local growers like Eric Locke who grows specific vegetables for us such as Italian varieties of courgettes, borlotti beans, chillis, peppers and the best Maris Bard new potatoes dug a couple of hours before serving.
British cheeses: Hamish Johnston, Woodbridge, Suffolk (www.hamishjohnston.com)
Ice cream: Jane Hadley, Colne Engaine (www.handmadebyhadleys.co.uk)
Coffee: supplied by Piers’ friend Hamish Anderson at Tate Galleries who works with farmers directly and pays 50% more than Fair Trade prices.
Jing Tea: again, a company who works direct with farmers.
Behind the bar
Stand at the impressive bar, made from a huge slab of local elm, and expect to be bamboozled by the choice of drinks on and behind it. On tap, you’ll find local real ales from Adnams (Broadside), Crouch Vale (Brewer’s Gold) and guest breweries, perhaps Oakham JHB, alongside Suffolk lager from Calvors Brewery, Black Isle Organic Porter, local Aspall’s Harry Sparrow Suffolk Cyder, and keg Brew Dog. Look to the shelves for boutique vodka and gins from Sipsmith, Chase Sacred, and gin from Essex distillers Hayman’s. Equally not mainstream is the range of 15 malt whiskies and the adventurous wine list (Waitrose Good Food Guide Wine List of the Year 2015) that majors in Italy and France; 20 by the glass and carafe.
Bar snacks
Available Monday – Saturday lunch and Sunday to Thursday dinner
Black pudding Scotch egg, celeriac remoulade
Gin-cured salmon, blinis, dill pickles
Fennel & sea salt pork scratchings
Crab on sourdough bread, curried mayonnaise, apple salad
Lamb patti, harissa, pickled chillies, brioche bun (lunch only)
Time at the bar