The Inn at Cranborne Cranborne, Dorset
Mastering the menu
When Jane took over the Inn, as someone new to the industry, she decided to give her chef the space to be creative, which turned out to be an exceedingly good idea. Chef Matt Clemence has focused the menu around ingredients sourced within a 30-mile radius of the pub, which luckily includes the pub’s own kitchen garden down the road, and a host of lovely things from the green and pleasant counties of Dorset, Wiltshire and Hampshire (check out the map on the back of the menu), not to mention the South Coast. But Matt and his team have sensibly kept things relatively simple, delivering a menu that works in the pub setting and offers the sort of comforting, rustic food people want to eat. You can eat anywhere you like – inglenook bar, village bar or snug – and you’ll find local estate pheasant with quince jelly, pumpkin, cavolo nero and chestnuts, alongside classic pubby options such as haddock and chips on the menu. Everything is done well, including lunchtime open sandwiches (ham knuckle with vegetable piccalilli, say, or smoked salmon and cream cheese), and, when it comes to pudding, make sure you leave room for dark chocolate mousse with orange curd, torn poppy seed sponge, honeycomb and chocolate oil.
On the menu
Potted treacle-cured salmon and brown shrimps, pickled cucumber, wasabi mayonnaise
West Country smoked pressed ham hock, triple-cooked chips, Fluffet Farm eggs
Beef burger, toasted sesame and onion seed bun, shoestring chips, Dorset Blue Vinny
Sticky shin of beef, heritage carrot, parmesan hash and treacle jus
Vanilla set cream, pistachio cake and rhubarb sorbet
Sunday Roasts
Roast sirloin of Red Devon beef with red wine sauce; roast pork with apple sauce
Foodie Extras
Hailing from Australia, Jane loves a BBQ, and there’s usually one on the go when there’s an event on such as the summer micro-brewery festival.
Time to Eat
Lunch: 12 noon – 2pm (2.30pm Saturday & Sunday)
Dinner: 6pm – 9pm (9.30pm Friday & Saturday)
Local, local, local
Meat – P. Keating Butchers, Wimborne (www.pkeatingbutchers.co.uk) / Walter Rose & Son, Devizes (www.walterroseandson.co.uk)
Smoked fish/meats/poultry – Fjordling Smokehouse, Salisbury (www.fjordling.co.uk)
Fish – Coopers of Andover, Andover (www.cooperfoods.co.uk)
Milk – Maple Farm, Martin, Dorset
Eggs – Fluffet Farm, Sixpenny Handley, Dorset
Cheese – Cranborne Manor Cheeses, Cranborne (www.cranborne.co.uk)
Ice creams & sorbets – Buttercup & Daisy, Wardour (www.buttercupanddaisy.org)
Rapeseed oil – Cranborne Chase Oils, Cranborne
Fruit & Veg – Country Fare in Christchurch & Higher Holwell Cottage Kitchen Garden, Cranborne (Jane’s own garden)
Behind the bar
Dorset’s own Badger Ales (Hall & Woodhouse) provide the beers – cask and bottled – including The Fleur, which is named after the pub’s original name, and seasonal choices such as Ruby Rustler in winter. When it comes to wine, the list includes a good selection by the glass and there are some interesting options from little-known smaller producers. Jane has gathered together a collection of 17 or so gins, including one produced in Melbourne (her home town), which is made by a women-only team. If you visit in December, look out for the Cranborne Cracker, a spicy perry number made by the chef.
Bar snacks
Pork crackling and spicy nuts made by the kitchen
House-baked pitta bread, hummus and olives
House-baked breads, marinated olives, Cranborne Chase rapeseed oil, balsamic
Devilled whitebait, elephant garlic and garden herb mayo
Oyster beignets, Maldon sea salt, pickled cucumber, beetroot and mayo
House-baked beans with jerk sausage on toast with a Fluffet Farm fried egg
Jar of jelly beans on the bar
Time at the bar
10.30am-10pm Monday; 10.30am-11pm Tuesday to Friday; 8.30am-11pm Saturday; 8.30am-10pm Sunday