The Pipe & Glass
Mastering the menu
Chef/landlord James Mackenzie was sourcing and using local produce long before it became de rigueur, and he’s got it down to a fine art. He won his Michelin star back in 2010 and the cooking reflects his passion for flavoursome food – breakfast and afternoon tea included. The menu changes daily, but expect the likes of home-cured ‘bresaola’ of duck breast with confit duck leg rissole, blood orange and celery followed by slow-cooked crispy shoulder of lamb with kidneys Turbigo, cumin-spiced lentils, cucumber pickle and minted sheep's yoghurt. To finish, how about Yorkshire rhubarb trifle with saffron custard and East Yorkshire sugar cakes. If you're still peckish mid-afternoon, a 'proper ploughman’s’ or a prawn cocktail might be the answer. On a fine day, take afternoon tea out on the terrace – perfect with a glass of Gardet Champagne. Sundays are epic here, and the pub is eminently child-friendly – so make a day of it with roast sirloin of Yorkshire beef plus gravy laced with Two Chefs beer or James White’s sausages with bubble and squeak. The wonderfully airy, spacious conservatory at the back is perfect, and the kids can run around safely in the garden. The private dining room on the first floor offers tasting menus for 6 - 10 people, ideal should you wish to take all of the rooms as well!
On the menu
Yellison goats’ cheesecake with beetroot macaroon, golden beets, candied walnuts and watercress £9
Salt-beef hash cake with fried quail’s egg, Yorkshire rhubarb ketchup and crispy pickled onion rings £10
Roast breast of guinea fowl with a crispy parcel of its leg meat, devils on horseback, sautéed heritage potatoes, burnt onion purée, kale and sherry cream £21
Fillet of wild turbot with lobster, leeks, cider and a Lindisfarne oyster fritter £26
Yorkshire rhubarb trifle with saffron custard, ginger wine-soaked parkin crumbs and East Yorkshire sugar cakes £8.50
Sunday Roasts
Roast beef, Yorkshire pudding and 'Two Chefs' gravy £17
Gloucester Old Spot pork, black pudding forcemeat and cider gravy £17
Slow-cooked crispy shoulder of lamb with mutton and kidney faggot £22
Foodie Extras
Afternoon tea with cut sandwiches, small desserts and fresh scones (£15)
Afternoon ‘savouries’ menu – soup, pâté, prawn cocktail, rarebit, 'proper' ploughman’s etc
Regular menu available outside on the back patio
There's a takeaway menu too
Time to Eat
Lunch: 12 noon - 2pm (4pm Sunday)
Afternoon tea: 2pm - 5pm
Afternoon savouries: 2pm - 6pm
Dinner: 6pm - 9.30pm (10pm Saturday; no food Sunday evening)
Local, local, local
Meat - James White Butcher, Driffield (www.jameswhitebutchers.co.uk)
Smoked meat and fish – Staal Smokehouse, Long Riston (www.staalsmokehouse.co.uk);Three Little Pigs, Dalton Holme (www.threelittlepigschorizo.co.uk)
Fish – Hodgsons, Hartlepool (www.hodgsonfish.co.uk)
Game - R&J Butchers, Ripon
Cheese - Shepherd's Purse, Thirsk (www.shepherdspurse.co.uk)
Real ale – Great Yorkshire Brewery, Cropton (www.thegreatyorkshirebrewery.co.uk); Wold Top Brewery, Driffield (www.woldtopbrewery.co.uk); Scarborough Brewery (www.scarboroughbrewery.co.uk); Black Sheep Brewery, Masham (www.blacksheepbrewery.com)
Behind the bar
Created by the Great Yorkshire Brewery in Cropton, Two Chefs honey beer (seasoned with a twist of lemon thyme) is a celebration of the friendship between owner James Mackenzie and Andrew Pern of the Star at Harome. The four-strong line-up also includes Wold Top Blonde, Black Sheep Bitter and the delightfully floral Cascades from the Scarborough Brewery. Cider fans can sup pints of Moorlands draught. The well-considered wine list offers a large number by the glass, including sparklers and Prosecco.
Bar snacks
Bar ‘nibbles' (‘a pound a pot’): wasabi nuts, olives, chilli-salted nuts
Time at the bar
12 noon-11pm (10.30pm Sunday)
Book a room at this inn
David Hancock says
The Best Bits
Proper pub in postcard-pretty village
Serene rural location – walks from the door
Warm welcome and lovely local staff
Michelin star, exciting pub food
Menus built around Yorkshire produce
Excellent local ales, top-notch wines
Jaw-dropping bedrooms and furnishings
What’s the Damage?
5 doubles £180 to £200 (£225 for the suite)
What Else?
All credit cards taken
Private dining facilities
Alfresco dining
Disabled access
Parking
Gongs
Michelin Star; AA 2 Rosettes; Harden’s; Waitrose Good Food Guide