Mastering the menu
Head chef Dave Hunter used to run the show at the Robinsons’ posh country hotel (Headlam Hall) and these days he’s turning on the style in the revamped kitchen of the Rose & Crown. He’s still making use of Headlam’s wonderful kitchen garden, and just about everything else is sourced from favoured local suppliers. Once you’re over the threshold, you’ll find a real fire and a happy hum in the traditional bar, or seek out the more relaxed charms of the main lounge area (with its wood-burning stove), but, when it comes to eating, the oak-panelled dining room is hard to beat, with its period character and smartly laid tables. The well put together menu includes seasonal picks of local trout and game from local estates, and even the simpler stuff such as sandwiches and fish and chips are done really well (the fish shipped in from Hartlepool quay). Scottish smoked salmon with brown shrimps, fennel salad and lemon dressing is a simple and effective first course, followed by seared fillet of sea bass with herb crushed potatoes, beer-battered king prawns and toasted almonds, dressed with a fish velouté, or a meat feast of caramelised pork tenderloin with slow-cooked pork belly and grilled pork sausage (served with dauphinois potatoes, Savoy cabbage and mustard cream). The comforting desserts and an array of local cheeses show the same attention to detail, and Sunday lunches bring in the crowds. In the morning, you may well catch a glimpse of Cheryl Robinson in her whites preparing breakfast and baking.
On the menu
Chicken liver parfait with bacon jam, carrot and watercress £5
Baked cod with pea ragu, mussel, leek and lemon cream £16.50
Beef sirloin, triple-cooked chips and rosemary jus £23.50
Lemon pannacotta with orange and pistachio £5.50
Raspberry Bakewell tart with crème anglaise £5.50
Time to Eat
Breakfast: 8am - 10am
Lunch: 12 noon - 2.30pm
Dinner: 6.30pm - 9.00pm
Local, local, local
Real ales – Black Sheep Brewery, Masham (www.blacksheepbrewery.com) / Thwaites Brewery, Blackburn (www.thwaitesbeers.co.uk)
Wine – Bon Coeur Fine Wines, Masham (www.bcfw.co.uk)
Soft drinks – Fentimans, Hexham (www.fentimans.com)
Meat – Joe Simpsons Butchers, Bishop Auckland (www.joesimpsonsbutchers.co.uk)
Seafood – Hodgson Fish, Hartlepool (www.hodgsonfish.co.uk)
Cheese – Cotherstone Cheese, Cotherstone (www.cheese.com/cotherstone) / Leaside Cheesemakers, Lower Teesdale (www.leasidcheesemakers.co.uk)
Ice cream – Archers Jersey Ice Cream, Walworth Gate (www.archersjerseyicecream.com)
Behind the bar
Black Sheep Bitter and Wainwright from Thwaites are the mainstays at the pumps, two of the big guns in this part of the country, with seasonal support from the like of White Boar from the Village Brewer. Wines come from Bon Coeur Fine Wines in Masham, another local favourite, with a list that has decent global coverage and includes lots of interesting bottles from smaller independent growers; there’s always at least nine by the glass. A goodly range of Scottish malts and some small batch spirits (Durham Gin, for example) all add to the mix. Fentimans – established in 1905 in Hexham – is a local company that has had national success in recent years, and here you’ll find their proper ginger beer, dandelion and burdock, lemonade, and a new mixer range to give your Durham G&T zing.
Time at the bar
11am - 11pm