Mastering the menu
Sean’s cooking offers French finesse in pub-sized portions – not too titivated, but thick with well-judged flavours. You can trace where your lunch came from on the back of each day’s menu: a hand-drawn map throngs with local suppliers, including venison from Rutland estates; pheasant and pigeon from shoots across the Vale of Belvoir; and curious cheeses from local dairies including Colwick and Slipcote. The list extends right down to “Mrs Larkworthy’s Jerusalem artichokes”. Lunch and dinner typically run to eight or nine just-right starters and mains: warm tartlet of wild mushroom with wood-pigeon perhaps, followed by roast pheasant with pearl barley and roots. There are wholesome sides if you’re really famished (honey-roast parsnips, sauteed purple sprouts), or (at lunchtime) a trio of sandwiches if you’re not (salt beef with caremelised onions and horseradish, £8.50). There’s a blackboard set lunch from Monday to Saturday (two courses £16.95, three for £19.95), and an even better-value gourmet five-courser on Sunday to Thursday evenings (£29.50). Whenever you visit, you’ll find down-home gingham napiery, hefty wood-handled cutlery, and a young waiting crew in crisp navy aprons who can’t do enough for you. What more can we say? Even Giles Coren liked it.
On the menu
Pan-seared red mullet fillet, griddled leeks, orange and rosemary, £7.25.
Warm terrine of confit duck leg, quince and pickled walnuts, £7.25.
Haunch of venison, juniper fondant, braised red cabbage, honey roast parsnips, £20.50.
Fillet of salmon, polenta fritters, saffron mussels, £17.50.
White forest gateau and black-cherry sorbet, £6.95.
Sunday roasts
3-course set lunch £25.50.
Corn-fed roast chicken breast, £16.95; roast thick rib of beef, £17.50; roast chump of lamb £18.95
Foodie Extras
Party dining and business lunches for up to 20 in the charmingly converted cow barn that adjoins the inn. On your way out, nip into the inn’s own shop, peddling home-made pickles, chutneys, jams and patés, plus local-grown eggs, honey and butter. Oh, and wines galore. The team will even create their dishes as ready-meals for you to wow friends with at your next dinner party!
Time to eat
Lunch: 12 noon - 2pm (3pm Sunday)
Dinner: 6.30pm - 9.30pm (from 7pm Saturday; 7pm-9pm Sunday)
Local, local, local
Goose – Botterill & Son, Croxton Kerrial (www.freerangebirds.co.uk).
Pork – Grasmere Farm, Deeping St James www.grasmere-farm.co.uk).
Stilton – Cropwell Bishop Creamery (www.cropwellbishopstilton.com).
Ales – Grainstore Brewery, Oakham (www.grainstorebrewery.com).
Behind the bar
The inn’s commitment to quality imbibing is every bit as powerful as its love of great food, with own-label Olive Ale bitter from Oakham on the bar and a bottled-beer menu that stretches from Brewsters Brewery (Grantham) to Barcelona and beyond. There is homemade strawberry vodka in summer, sloe gin straight from the hedgerow in winter; while the bespoke cocktail list includes the zingy Clipsham Cooler (gin, apple juice, elderflower, mint and lemon). Try it with Burleighs gin, distilled up the road in Leicestershire. The wine list is full of surprises, with red and white “wines of the month” instead of dull house staples, and a dozen offered in handy half-litre carafes. No fewer than seven champagnes, too. Why not jot down your own tasting notes and add them to the rack beside the bar?
Bar snacks
The bar-snack blackboard says everything about the inn’s commitment to quality food: local Grasmere Grunta salami (£3), padron peppers (£1.75), pickled cockles (£2), chorizo cooked in cider (£2.95) and more. And what could be toastier than hot chestnuts roasted on the fire in winter – just help yourself.
Time at the bar
12 noon - 3pm and 6pm - 11pm (12 noon - 11pm Saturday; 12 noon - 10.30pm Sunday)