The Felin Fach Griffin
Mastering the menu
Max Wilson, formerly head chef at the New Yard restaurant in Cornwall, joined the team in November 2014 and is relishing his new role. He’s been visiting local farms and artisan producers, and working with gardener Joe Hand to ensure fresh supplies of salads, herbs (more recently, micro-herbs), fruit and vegetables for his daily changing menus and also for homemade jams and chutneys. Evolving with the seasons, a typical winter set lunch menu may highlight mushroom and tarragon soup followed by pheasant pie, mashed potatoes and carrots, while for supper, tuck into squid tempura, sweet chilli mayonnaise and lime, rib-eye steak with onions, chips and peppercorn sauce. Puddings may include iced banana parfait, toffee sauce, peanut crunch and chocolate ice cream, washed down with a glass of Nectar (2009) from the island of Samos.
On the menu
Lamb pastille, Jerusalem artichoke £8
Duck ballotine, duck parfait, rhubarb & ginger chutney £8
Lemon sole, brown crab beignet, crab butter £18.50
Pork belly, hash brown, celeriac & kale £15
Pear & almond tart, amaretti ice cream £6.50
Buttermilk pannacotta, poached rhubarb, honeycomb, rhubarb sorbet £7.50
Sunday Roasts
Roast rib of beef
Roast leg of Welsh lamb
Set menu – 1 course £13.75; 2 courses £24; 3 courses £24.50
Foodie Extras
Walker’s Picnics – take a packed lunch with or without wine or champagne (from £8.50); Regular wine dinners; Spend an afternoon foraging for mushrooms with the local forager and eat them for supper; Strawberry Tea Party
Time to Eat
Breakfast: 8am - 9.30am (8.30am - 9.30am weekends)
Lunch: 12 noon – 2.30pm
Dinner: 6pm – 9pm (9.30pm Friday & Saturday)
Local, local, local
Black Mountain Smokery, Crickhowell (www.smoked-foods.co.uk)
James Gourmet Coffee, Ross-on-Wye (www.jamesgourmetcoffee.com)
Penpont Organic, Sennybridge (salads, herbs, flowers) (www.penpont.com)
Irma Fingal Rock, Monmouth (wine - www,pinotnoir.co.uk)
Welsh Venison Centre, Bwlch (www.breconfarmshop.co.uk)
Paddy Sweeney Butchers, Brecon
Principality Pigs of Llandefalle (from Duncan – up the hill from the pub)
Fruit, vegetables, herbs & micro-herbs from the Griffin Organic Garden
Behind the bar
The Griffin takes drinking very seriously and the impressive Drinks List makes for interesting reading and is best perused while supping a tip-top pint of Wye Valley ale. The choice of wines reflects the true spirit of The Griffin, all sourced from small, independent and passionate merchants, and the eclectic, wittily described list (20 by the glass or carafe) changes from month to month and, if you sample an absolute corker during your stay, then you can ask to see the separate (& very sensible) price list for wines to take away. The Inkin’s drink passion extends beyond wine to other amazing independent producers, from unusual Sherries, to Cornish Pastis, Penderyn Welsh Whisky, Chase Vodka and Tarquins Gin from Cornwall’s own South Western Distillery. Cider from Herefordshire, Cornwall and Monmouthshire, and up to four real ales from local micro-breweries completes the boozy picture. Delicious soft drinks include natural fruit juices from Lovely Drinks and home-made lemonade.
Time at the bar
11am – 11pm
Book a room at this inn
David Hancock says
The Best Bits
A brilliant bolthole in the Brecons
Artful, understated sense of style throughout
Amazing drinks – independent suppliers
Delicious food – menus evolve with seasons
Stroll through the verdant kitchen garden
Simple bedrooms designed with flair
What’s the Damage?
Seven doubles B&B £125-£165;
DB&B £177.50-£217.50
(seasonal sleepover offers £150-£170)
Inn Places Perk
Surprise complimentary Book
What Else?
All credit cards taken (except Amex)
Alfresco dining
Private dining: 12-16 in the Aga Room
Parking
Disabled access to Tackroom dining room; not the bedrooms
Gongs
Waitrose Good Food Guide; Good Hotel Guide; Michelin; Welsh Rarebits